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Writer's pictureKate Pankhurst FRSN

Falling for Goldwork: a new embroidery treasure for the GSWD


A woman in a blue top doing hand embroidery
Kate Pankhurst embroiders the GSWD lectern fall

Creating a goldwork embroidered lectern fall for the Worshipful Company of Gold & Silver Wyre Drawers has presented a wonderful opportunity to depict the company's values, celebrating the artistry of craftsmanship and the enduring essence of friendship woven through time.


My first idea was literally a 'back of an envelope' design. The company motto evoked a strong image in my mind of a bobbin throwing out gold and silver wire into a heart shape. As is so often the case, the first idea turns out to be the best.

A hand drawn heart and bobbin
The initial sketch

The design developed into a stylised depiction of interconnected golden hearts with a molten silver centre - some of which overspills. The metal is collected as wire to a bobbin, which then weave and intertwine as they are ’drawn’ down by two stylised hands. Finally the threads create the Company motto, "Love Draws Friendship."


Close up of goldwork embroidery
Close up of the molten silver emerging from the gold cutwork
The GSWD goldwork embroidered lectern fall on blue velvet with honeybee
The GSWD goldwork embroidered lectern fall

The GSWD coat of arms at the top is stitched in Or Nue, a goldwork embroidery technique sponsored by the GSWD on the RSN Stitchbank this year.


A treasure of the GSWD would not be complete without our precious wire; so the bobbin is a wooden reel wound with fine silver and 18ct gold round wire


Fingers holding a small gold bobbin wound with real gold and silver wire
The bobbin with gold & silver wire

A life-size honeybee at the base represents our beekeeping Master Catherine Carr, who commissioned this work as a gift to the Company. It's also a nod to the fact that Goldwork embroidery uses thread conditioned with beeswax.

Hand holding an embroidered honeybee
The embroidered honeybee

Contributors

As a special piece of work, Freemen embroiderers were invited to add their ceremonial stitch to the lectern fall. Once I had completed most of the embroidery, the following

were able to contribute a stitch:

Liz Elvin, Catherine Carr, Jess Ingram, Sabina Lima, Sophie Dinning, Alex Standring, Kate Barlow, Laura Baverstock, Anja von Kalinowski-Meager, Daisy Streatfeild, Francesca Lim


Goldwork embroidered design with heart and bee
The finished GSWD lectern fall

Techniques

Goldwork: Or Nue, cutwork, applique, couching, stumpwork


Materials:

Gilt & silver plate: bright and wire check, smooth and rough purl, crimped plate, millary wire, Japanese soft, Rococco, Twist, pearl purls, spangles and kid leather.


Honeybee: Stranded DMC lumiere padded body in long & short and Turkey rug stitch. Wired organza wings with fil au chinois veins, Bead eyes. Worked as a slip and applied.



Master Catherine Carr of the Worshipful Company of Gold & Silver Wyre Drawers in regalia, with the Lectern Fall
Master Catherine Carr of the Worshipful Company of Gold & Silver Wyre Drawers, with the Lectern Fall

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